I love French pharmacy products, and I love French skincare brands mostly across the board.

I love the focus on skin protectant ingredients, and I love even more that some of these products contain fragrance.

Demonstrating that you can absolutely “heal” the skin while fragrance is being used.

A lot of my discussion and critique here surrounds using these products outside of their intended purpose, so keep that in mind. But their reputation has organically developed outside of just wound and burn care so I think it’s relevant to discuss.

Let me know if you think I’m deadass wrong. Or if you’ve had similar experiences with these products.

What’s The Cult Appeal of French Skincare?

There are a few French pharmacy products that I think have true cult status – the products you hear whispers about that previously people used to have to travel to France to buy.

And then bring back in their luggage.

If that's even true, but it's certainly the perception.

These days, nearly everything is accessible.

So maybe the mystique has dissipated a little bit. But maybe the mystique enhances results?

Let's discuss these cult products and whether I think they're worth it.

I know discussing beloved products is always a touchy subject, so obviously this is just my opinion and experience using them.

I'm always happy to hear if you've had a different, more positive, or more negative experience. Let me know in the comments.

Homeoplasmine Multi-Purpose Ointment, $24.99

This is a topical ointment for the adjunctive treatment of skin irritation.

It is often referred to as a "homeopathic medicine" or "plant based homeopathic remedy."

Depending on the website you visit, the main selling point seems to be around the inclusion of additional "natural" extracts like calendula and claims around it being an antiseptic.

The funny thing? The main excipient and structure of this ointment is essentially Vaseline (petrolatum).

Some websites even go to great lengths to avoid using the word petrolatum and will label it as containing "Vaselinum Album" which is just the Latin phrasing.

This is a good ointment because it contains petrolatum and has a relatively matte finish that makes it convenient to use during the day if needed.

The included antiseptics may make it a good option for minor scrapes and abrasions. However, I suspect many people buy it because of the perception of it being more natural.

The natural extracts are supposed to boost the anti-inflammatory effect and elevate the status of Homeoplasmine above other ointments.

In my experience, and within the context of it being used in the skincare community as a face balm, it is entirely overrated, and this performs no differently to Vaseline or Aquaphor.

Verdict: Fine but overrated, with confused “natural” marketing that is entirely unnecessary.

Biafine Emulsion, $31.95

Biafine is also a product to help assist skin healing, and was probably made most famous by Charlotte Palermino (of Dieux) here on IG, at least within my field of vision.

It is often labelled as a "cream for sunburn" but can be used for other types of burns and skin irritation too.

Trolamine is the main active skin protectant in the formula, keeping skin moist to better enable healing and repair. It has a unique medicinal scent which I've grown to really enjoy but can be confronting at first.

Biafine would be a 'medicine cabinet' type product, and I've used it in cases of over-doing acid exfoliation and general irritation from trying too many skincare products at once (Uh oh).

This product costs a few dollars in France and some online retailers, so within that context it totally makes sense to have.

The emulsion texture is quite unique, feels much lighter than other healing creams.

Some international websites charge a large mark-up, in which case, not worth it. Especially for a product that will be situational at best.

Basically, I like this as an alternative to traditional ointments simply because the texture is nicer to use and comes with large product quantity.

Verdict: Love! But only without exorbitant mark-ups.

Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre Multi-purpose Moisturiser, $42.00

This started off as a makeup artist's secret cream but has since exploded in popularity and Embryolisse has become a very well-known brand. I wanted to include it here cause its origins were very cult, and I think people are still discovering it.

This is truly worth the hype and a phenomenal moisturiser. The brand (sadly) wants to tout the "natural" ingredients, but I think the real star here is that it features mineral oil.

We've lost a lot of these super standard and very classic ingredients in skincare (due to the misery of clean beauty), but this product feels like a hug for the skin and does it in a way that's not greasy or oily. Expertly moisturising with a universally beloved dry down.

This is how skincare products used to be. And I'm thrilled at least some classics have remained available.

Verdict: Perfection!

Ialuset Hyaluronic Acid Cream, $34.99

Another healing cream, this time based around hyaluronic acid.

Which is an ingredient that some Insta-famous derms have enjoyed demonising – for no reason.

Especially since HA is available in so many formats, it doesn't even make sense to discuss it as one ingredient.

Anyway...haha...this is a cream format reportedly containing 0.2% sodium hyaluronate, I think it's classified as a medical device in France.

The intention of this product is also originally around wound/burn care, but its reputation has since developed into a cream to help dehydration and the appearance of fine lines.

I find this cream to be quite dry feeling, not overly moisturising.

I know most of the websites say you need to use it on damp skin etc. And keep misting between layers etc. That's all well and good, but not necessary.

I think if you want a simplified skincare routine using this product alongside a thermal water, then great. But does it have a noticeable impact on my skin?

Not that I've noticed.

In the end, I've most enjoyed using it as a mask coupled with a mist. But would not consider it a must-have.

A313 Vitamin A Retinol Cream, $38.99

Hmm...what even. This is billed as a Vitamin A pomade, and you'll find an abundance of positive reviews saying this product was life changing.

I don't get it.

A lot of websites refer to it as a retinol cream, which is wrong, as it doesn't contain retinol. Instead, it has a derivative called retinyl palmitate in a fairly low percentage.

I'm not sure any skincare professional in any field would consider retinyl palmitate to be an effective retinoid?

I feel like this is the type of product that has been inflated on social media, and probably has limited real world standing in French pharmacy.

In fact, French pharmacies seem to refer to this as an ointment for "irritative contact dermatitis" and to help rashes heal faster, not even as a retinoid.

You'll often see websites touting how this product contains "macro gels" which is just another word for different types of polyethylene glycol (PEG), these have multiple uses in skincare, including humectant and emollient properties.

Maybe these ingredients are giving skin a super plump and moisturising feel.

So, if that's why you're using it, then great. But as an actual retinoid? Probs not.

It's worth noting that some websites say A313 contains a blend of 3 retinoids: retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl propionate.

But I haven't been able to find any current retail versions containing that blend.

Verdict: Use it as a greasy moisturising ointment if you want, but as a retinoid? Nah.

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